Sunday 1 May 2011

Pulling focus from the bride. By wearing a wine rack. On your head.

Which is a pretty big call if the bride is a commoner about to become royalty and, indeed, a future Queen.

With 2 billion people around the world watching the whole thing. In HD.

So what was Princess Beatrice thinking, hmmm? Don't get me wrong, I'm all for stretching one's avant garde muscles -  my formative years were all about wearing the kookiest New Romantic get-ups I could wiggle into, to the quiet despair of my elegant Mum  -  but I do have some doubts about the outfits Beatrice and Eugenie sported at the royal wedding.

                Photo by Dan Kitwood/Getty Images Europe

Philip Treacy is a genius and a national treasure and makes the most wondrous hat confections I've ever laid eyes on. But, honestly, Beatrice's bonnet looks like a plaster moulding prised off the ceiling of the throne room at Buckingham Palace, upon which poor Phil accidentally spilled his morning latte from the Starbucks around the corner. But hat choice aside, for me it's all about the colour. Or lack thereof.

Redheads have to be careful about colour, being mostly pale and wan-looking (I speak from personal experience). Nude tones in particular can leave a redhead looking at best like a sepia photo or, at worst, like a corpse.

                    Photo courtesy of  Now magazine

A rather splendid row of teeth and stormy panda eyes are the only distinguishable features in a frumpy sea of cafe au lait-tinged high-necked rouleau-swamped matronly Valentino far more suited to her grandmother's style. Which is unfortunate because she's an attractive girl with a beautiful mane of hair. Ten points for chutzpah, but aim for colour to complement your titian gorgeousness! As she did on the cover of Tatler. Stunning. The defense rests.

                      Photo courtesy of Tatler

And there's Eugenie, going hammer and tongs in the opposite direction, in an explosion of colour-drenched Vivienne Westwood (another of my favourite envelope-pushing designers). It takes some pluck to wear Westwood so, again, ten points, but whoever styled her may need to take a test to determine if he/she is technically blind, as this choice of ensemble suggests.

The optical illusion of  a neckline is one of the most effective ways to change a person's proportions, adding length and losing mass without the need for Weight Watchers or a pair of crippling Jimmy Choo's. Square necklines are the trickiest to wear unless you closely resemble a twig. Eugenie has a lot of curve going on, and plentiful boobage and square necklines are not happy companions. That hard horizontal line takes her chest to acreage proportions. And adding three fussy bows to one's front when one's front doesn't require any further attention-seeking behaviour...

And whilst I personally love the beautifully-executed sculptural cut of Westwood's designs, one really needs to be six foot two and/or somewhat willowy to cope with the volume of sculptured shapes. This outfit cuts her in half and the draped skirt stopping abruptly at the knees widens her hip department disproportionally. It doesn't mean she can't wear Westwood, she just needs to wear Westwood like the one she wore for Tatler (this mag definitely knows how to style these girls...)

                     Photo courtesy of Tatler

When in doubt, wear a dress. All one colour. Keep the eye on the vertical and diagonal lines. Wow.

The new Duchess of Cambridge, by the way, looked superlatively beautiful. Flawless. Perfection.

Sarah Burton, I bow and scrape before you.

Tuesday 25 January 2011

autostylography

Right then. It's the new year. Time to bring this blog into the real world of real women and men, and the real joys and woes that we find in our wardrobes.

And where better to start than yours truly.

I'm having a MAJOR clear out of clothes and accessories that no longer have a place in my life, let alone my style, anymore. It is truly amazing, and not a little idiotic, what we hang on to and why, and how difficult and traumatic it can be to simply remove it from the house. Permanently.

So, over the next few weeks, I'll be documenting my wardrobe purge for all the world to see. Why I toss some things and keep others, the different ways of getting bags of rejected clothes out of the house without turning it into landfill, the gentle art of archiving, and how to re-style the keepers into a wardrobe that works for me rather than against me. And you, faithful readers, will witness the whole thing.

Feel free to ask me what the hell I was thinking when I post photos of the little gems of horror hiding away in my closet. Don't hold back in asking "Hey, you're a stylist! WTF?"  Because even stylists, the apparent arbiters of all things cool and on-trend and fabulous, get it wrong sometimes. I'm as vulnerable as anyone to a so-called bargain during the sales. I get all hot under the collar about trends that are exciting and sexy and playful and cutting edge but simply won't work in a day-to-day wardrobe. I flip through Vogue and fantasize that I can carry off that awesome dress worn by [insert name of preferred supermodel here] even though she's six foot three and I'm five foot two.

Personal style is an ongoing process, evolving gently with every passing year, changing as we change shape and size and our perspective on life. And this is a really good thing. As fun as it was, I'm glad I moved on from the silver Lurex footless tights and white jersey mini dress I wore when I was 15 and wanted to be the backing vocalist for Duran Duran. With white and gold winklepickers. Now we're talkin'!

So, saddle up, folks. We is goin' on a ride!


Exhibit A.
My lovely box of scarves. 
Which, strangely over time, has morphed into a box of scarves 
plus a bunch of other crap that won't fit elsewhere.
And the last time I wore any of this was... ummm, yeah. OK.

And for those of you who have never experienced winklepickers first hand
(or foot, I suppose)
this is what they are...
 Terrifically pointy shoes! Perfect for picking winkles!
Extremely bad for your toes!



Wednesday 19 January 2011

like trying to dress the Empire State Building...

...which is the challenge for the stylist who glams up Christina Hendricks for the red carpet, according to my husband.

Tall, magnificently hourglass, pale skinned and carrot-topped. Maybe it's easier to dress a size 0 suntanned blonde, but not half as much fun!



Her gown for the Golden Globes was definitely eye catching - knock 'em dead RED and a proper nod to Mae West in its skin-tightness.



But the ruffle on her shoulder? Bless her, the last thing she needs above her tiny waistline is more volume. Combined with the soft mussed up hairstyle, it was all too busy and suffocating around her face, which is quite small and delicate. The final effect was top heavy and disproportionate and it was all because of the clothes, not her figure.

Because when she keeps it streamlined, she looks AMAZING. But ya know, having said all that, she is an emphatically stunning poster girl for voluptuous women and redheads everywhere, no matter what she wears.

Wednesday 5 January 2011

2011 - the year of YOU. And me too, come to think of it.

Great fortune and buckets of joy for a glittering New Year to all the folks who read this blog. Which isn't a lot of people but, hey, that just means more fortune, joy and glitter for those nice ones who do.

I wanted to start a full year of blogging by tipping my hat to the Renaissance Zen Man who thoughtfully and quite unknowingly provided the name for this blog. He was the 1st AD on a film I costumed in 2007, a wonderful project designed to give young aspiring filmmakers and crew a leg-up into the industry. It's called The Butterfly Tattoo, and it's available on Amazon UK for £11.99. You really should buy it. (end of shameless plug)

The Costume Department (myself and my fab assistant Rachel) and Make Up (the lovely Leanne) were always plonked into the same corner of wherever we were filming - tents, vans, warehouses, paddocks. And we became known collectively and appropriately as The Glamour Department.

Thanks, Mr Christian Gill.